August 11: Odense Day 3

This morning we had breakfast at 7 am again and after breakfast I walked to the rental car agency to pick up the rental car that we would drive to Copenhagen. For some reason, their computer systems were down for a little while, so they had to do all the paperwork manually. I eventually got the car and when I arrived back at the lobby of the hotel it was right as everyone was leaving so it worked out okay. We headed to a bakery to get some lunch for later and then we went to the central station to catch a train to the Odense Zoo. 

The Kangaroo Enclosure

We met Yuri, Kie and Nao at the front entrance of the zoo, where Kie and Nao joined us and Yuri headed home. Christal just told me last night that Yuri ended up contracting long covid and ever since her energy levels, psyche and overall health has not been up to par, which is why she did not go on any of the excursions with us. 

The Odense Zoo was an incredible zoo. They had many excellent exhibits and all the habitats were really well thought out. There were several areas that had multiple species of birds living together and the enclosures were quite large, at least 1.5 - 2 acres each and they usually included other land animals from a similar region as well. 

Does LB Wish He Was Taller?

There was also a very cool wooden tower, called Bøgetoppen, that took you up to a series of rope bridges 6-12 meters above the ground and you got to walk around in the treetops. 

Bøgetoppen

While I was following Kie, Nao and LB around up there Kie spotted her dad who waved up to us. When we finished the Bøgetoppen we waited for Christian and Miu to meet up with us. 

I Think He's Trying to Lose Me

Once they joined us we all got some treats, slushies for the kids and ice cream for the adults. Then we continued walking around the rest of the zoo and at one point Kie and Nao asked LB to play tag. LB was in heaven running around and shrieking his head off. Eventually we made our way to the entrance/exit and said goodbye to Christian and the kids and headed back to the train stop to catch the train back to central Odense. 

Checking Their Wingspan

After we got back to the hotel we had LB go to Ojiichan’s room while Kyoko-san and Hirojichan showed us around the older part of Odense, where Hans Christian Anderson was born, grew up and went to school. 

HCA's Old Stomping Grounds

We shopped for a few omiyage and walked around the outside of the HC Anderson museum since it was closed for the day. Then we went back to the hotel to relax before going to dinner. 

HCA Museum

For dinner Christian, Kie and Miu joined us and Kyoko-san wanted to go back to Restaurant Klosterkroen because they had a loaded omelet dish she wanted to try and a dessert, citron fromage, that she wanted us to try. The omelet dish was a skillet filled with fluffy egg and then topped with a mountain of three kinds of pork (salted fried pork, smoked bacon and homemade crackling), some cucumber and tomatoes and served with pickled beets, mustard, ketchup and rye bread. We ordered two for the table and it was so big we ended up with about half an order leftover. 

Pork Omelette

The citron fromage was a danish lemon mousse that felt extremely light and had a nice lemon flavor that was not overpowering at all. It was also a nice dessert because it was not too sweet. After we finished with dinner we walked back to the hotel and said goodbye to Christian, Kie and Miu and then went to bed. Tomorrow we have to drive to Copenhagen early to catch our flight home.

Citronfromage

August 10: Odense Day 2

This morning we had breakfast at the hotel and it was an excellent spread. There were lots of different breads, cheeses, salad and meats, some yogurt, jams and cereals and also American style stuff like scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage. After breakfast Kyoko-san, Ojiichan and I went to pick up rental cars for the day. Unfortunately, I forgot my passport so we picked up the first car, drove back to the hotel so I could get the passport, then drove back to get the second rental car. Once we had gotten both cars we parked them at the hotel parking lot and relaxed for about an hour before we packed up and left for our daily excursion. Our first stop was Yuri and Christian’s house to exchange omiyage and pick up Kie and Nao, their older children, who would be coming with us. Then we drove to Ollerup, which is the town and school that Kyoko-san attended when she was younger and learned Danish gymnastics. 

Some of Ollerup's Grounds

When we arrived a Japanese girl met us to show us around the school. The first thing we were shown was the school’s indoor pool, which is the oldest indoor pool in Europe according to our tour guide. Then we took the underground pathways they use in the winter to the new gymnasium stadium that was finished in 2020 for their 100 year anniversary. 

The New Gymnasium

Then we walked outside and met Esben (sp?), who was the first person to do the homestay program with Kyoko-san, and his kids. We all headed outside, walked around and went across the street to another building that was strictly for parkour. 

Is That LB?

It had all kinds of apparatuses and a foam pit for you to practice on. All the kids loved it and played around for a while until it was time to go for lunch. 

Can You Find the Foam Pit?

For lunch they had Swedish sausages, which were sliced sausages and potatoes in a pepper cream sauce, a couple of salads and a really good bread that had some rosemary and nuts. At lunch we met up with Kyoko-san’s friends that had come over from Amsterdam. Before the adults had finished lunch, Esben (sp?) took all the kids to the tumbling training center to play around. Once the adults had finished lunch we walked over to see the kids. 

Time for Trampoline Training

The tumbling training center was impressive, there were a few trampolines set up with bungees, a couple trampolines where you could jump into a foam area, a long inflatable runway, I’m assuming for tumbling passes and even more equipment stored in the storage area. The kids loved playing on it all and LB was doing all kinds of flips on all the trampolines. When we finished in the tumbling center we said goodbye to Esben (sp?) and his family and our tour guide showed us more of the school. 

The Outdoor Pool

Before we left we spent some time at the outdoor common area and the kids were able to play soccer and frisbee or lay in the hammocks and I played a little basketball. When it was time to go we said goodbye to our tour guide and Kyoko-san’s friends from Tokyo and drove back to Odense. 

The Outdoor Common Area

We headed to Yuri and Christian’s garden plot to hang out for a few hours. We parked in a small car lot and walked about 500 yards and then turned left until we were at their garden. Apparently in Denmark they rent land from the government for these gardens and most of them have a structure that you can sleep or relax in. They can be as elaborate as having running water and AC or as basic as being a shed, but obviously, the nicer the structure the more expensive it is. 

Yuri & Christian's Garden Paradise

Yuri and Christian’s garden basically had a structure with a bed and nice floors in it and then a futon/couch outside on the porch, and a picnic table beyond that. They had an apple tree that was filled with apples, but Yuri said they wouldn’t be sweet for a couple more months. Their garden beds had lots of herbs, some tomatoes, strawberries and lettuce and a fire pit next to the apple tree. Kyoko-san and Yuri had brought some baked goods, snacks and drinks so we sat and talked while we ate and drank, all the while LB and Ojiichan were napping on the futon/couch. 

The Futon's a Little Too Comfy

After about an hour and a half or so Christian arrived on his bike since he was able to get off of work a little bit early. We talked with Christian a few minutes and then we went for a hike next to the river that runs by the garden.

Along the River

We walked along the river for a little while then circled around and up a little hill and back down to the original trail. When we got back to their garden LB was just starting to wake up and it was about time for us to start heading out. 

Strolling Through the Woods

We drove back into central Odense and dropped off Hirojichan, Christal and the kids at the hotel and then Kyoko-san, Ojiichan and I returned the rental cars and walked back to the hotel. For dinner Ojiichan, Christal, the kids and I went to a middle eastern restaurant that was pretty close to the hotel. After dinner we came back to the hotel and went to bed.

August 9: Copenhagen to Odense

This morning Ojiichan, Kyoko-san and I took the bus to Hart Bageri to pick up some breakfast before we had to check out of the hotel. We then walked to Central Station to catch the train to Odense. The train ride was a little less than an hour and a half and LB fell asleep while we went through the Danish countryside. 

That's One Way to Nap

When we arrived in Odense, Kyoko-san's daughter and granddaughter, Yuri and Kie, met us at the station and showed us to our hotel. Unfortunately our rooms weren’t ready so we left our luggage in the luggage room and Yuri and Kie took us to Druen & Bønnen, our restaurant for lunch, and then they had to leave. We had a selection of smørrebrød for lunch, all of which were delicious, and then Kyoko-san had a strawberry trifle and Hirojichan had a cheese plate for dessert. 

Fried Herring Smørrebrød

After finishing lunch we took Ojiichan and LB to nap in the lobby while the rest of us went to walk around town while we waited for our rooms to be ready. Kyoko-san and Hirojichan first took us to St. Knut’s Church. Knut was king in Denmark from 1080-1086 ad and was murdered in 1086 in Odense. His and his brother’s remains are located in the lower floor of the church and are in very good condition. 

King Knut's Remains

Right next to/behind the church was the monastery gardens and a park that had a statue of Hans Christian Anderson and several sculptures that were based on his children’s stories. We wandered around this area for a little while until it was time to head back to check into our rooms. 

Hans Christian Andersen

After we took our luggage to the rooms we relaxed for a little while and then met in the lobby to head to dinner. We went to Restaurant Klosterkroen, which was like a Danish pub. The food was very basic and filling, but still very good. When we finished dinner we headed back to the hotel and got ready for bed.

Klosterkroen's Fried Plaice

August 8: Copenhagen Day 3

This morning we all went to a coffee shop called Andersen & Maillard, which is known for their filled cube croissants. Today they were filled with either pistachio cream or coconut cream, so of course we had to try both. The fillings for both were really good. The pistachio cream was extremely silky and smooth and the coconut cream had a really good punch of coconut flavor, Yeh-Yeh would have loved it! LB opted for a canelé and a spandauer, which is a danish filled with a marzipan cream. After we finished eating we headed back to the hotel. 

Cubic Croissants

After reorganizing a little bit, Christal, Ojiichan, the kids and I went out to visit the Little Mermaid statue, or Lille Havfrue, and take some pictures of it. 

The Little Mermaid

From there we walked to Nyhavn to take some daytime shots of the colorful buildings. Then we walked along the Stroget back to the hotel, but not before Christal got some new shoes, since her old ones were falling apart, and LB went into the Lego store with Ojiichan. We ended up buying LB the Ninjago set that he wanted most and it turned out to be a few dollars cheaper than on Amazon. 

An Overcast Day in Nyhavn

When we were done shopping we dropped our stuff off at the hotel and then met up with Hirojichan and Kyoko-san and went across the street to Tivoli Gardens. After we got into Tivoli Gardens we headed over to Gasoline Grill and had burgers, a chicken sandwich and elderflower lemonades for lunch. From there we walked around the park, rode on the ferris wheel, and went to the aquarium to watch them feed the fish. The aquarium was pretty good for being in an amusement park. They had a small shark that looked like a reef shark, a few leopard sharks, a couple rays, a small Napoleon wrasse and lots of other colorful tropical fish. LB and Ojiichan were getting sleepy by this point so we found a bench for them to sit at and take a nap while the rest of us walked around the rest of the park. 

Good Spot for a Nap

The best way I can think to describe Tivoli Gardens is a mix between a botanical garden, a city park and a small-scale Disneyland, which makes sense because Walt Disney was inspired by Tivoli when he built Disneyland. 

View from the Ferris Wheel

When we finished walking around the park we went back and got LB and Ojiichan and headed back to the hotel to let both of them sleep some more while Christal and I got ready for Noma. 

Axel Towers

Christal and I took the bus to Noma, which was a few stops past Barr. When we arrived they had a couple of greeters at the beginning of the garden to check us in. Before they let us walk down the path through the garden and into the restaurant they had us wait until the couple in front of us had cleared through and then let us experience the entrance on our own. 

Well Hello Noma!

When we walked in the front door there were about 8-10 people there to greet us and they took our coats and showed us to our table. The meal itself was the best dining experience we have had, and it wasn’t even close! The food was mind blowing. 

Noma's Mold is Delicious

When we had finished they gave us a couple of small bottles of the Noma Projects dashi reduction and menus of the night to take home and then gave us a tour of the rest of the restaurant and grounds. 

The Pass

As we were leaving they made sure we didn’t need a taxi to be called and made sure we knew how to get back to our bus stop. Unfortunately, the bus we were trying to catch didn’t seem to be running that far out of the city, because there were some people at our stop that had been waiting for 40 minutes for the bus, so just like last night, we decided to walk to another bus stop closer to town where we could catch a few different lines in to our hotel. 

One of the Prep Kitchens

When we arrived back we relieved Ojiichan so that he could go back to his room and found LB showered and watching the Ipad. We got ready for bed and went to sleep.

The View from our Table

August 7: Copenhagen Day 2

This morning I met Ojiichan, Hirojichan and Kyoko-san in the lobby and we went to Hart Bageri to get some breakfast. As soon as we walked out the door a big gust of wind came and hit us and Ojiichan decided he was going to stay and get something at the 7-11 at the hotel, so Hirojichan, Kyoko-san and I went to Hart Bageri and got some goodies and brought them back to the hotel to eat. 

Some of Hart Bageri's Offerings

When we were done we decided to go to KU.BE, which is like a big playground for kids. It took us a while to find where to buy a city pass for transportation because they wouldn’t accept a US credit card online or at the ticket kiosks for some reason. Once we finally got our passes we headed to KU.BE, but once we got there LB was sleepy and just wanted to take a nap so we just let him nap a little while while we checked out the place. It was too bad he slept the whole time because they had a big slide that was two stories tall, a climbing hill with slides going down, a cargo net area that went up to another story as well as many other activities he would have enjoyed. 

1st Floor of the KU.BE

Once Christal and I finished looking at everything we decided to head back to the hotel and let LB and Ojiichan rest. Our whole family ended up taking a nap pretty much until it was time to head to dinner. We had dinner at Barr, which is in the old Noma location and it was our best meal on the trip so far in my opinion. Everything was delicious and we got to try some unique ingredients like sweet woodruff. 

Barr's Interior

After dinner we came back to the hotel and got LB showered. Then, since we all took a nap earlier, we dropped LB off at Ojiichan’s room and Christal, Maddy and I went out to Nyhavn to see if it would be any better for night photos tonight. It was pretty much the same as last night, so we walked back to the hotel by way of Strøget, which seems to be a major retail street in Copenhagen. Just before we got back we stopped at 7-11 for some drinks for the room and then we got LB and got ready for bed.

The End of Strøget

August 6: Amsterdam to Copenhagen

Today we packed everything up, had a quick breakfast at the hotel and headed to the airport at 8:15 am. Our flight to Copenhagen went smoothly for the most part and once we landed and got our luggage we met back up with Hirojichan and Kyoko-san and a couple of her friends. We all took a train from the airport to our hotel and were able to check in as soon as we arrived. After leaving our luggage in the room we all met in the lobby and walked to Restaurant Kronborg, which only serves smørrebrød or Danish buttered bread with toppings, for an early dinner. 

The waiter had recommended the meatball smørrebrød so I tried that and Christal ordered the “Aquavit special” which had potatoes, herring and herbs among other things. We both ended up liking her smørrebrød better. 

Kronborg's "Aquavit Special"

When we finished at Restaurant Kronborg, Kyoko-san's friends left us to explore on their own and Hirojichan and Kyoko-san took us on a canal tour. Unfortunately, after dinner it started raining and it kept raining the rest of the night. The tour was very informative and we felt like it was much better than the canal tour in Amsterdam. 

Before the Rain

One of the more interesting facts our guide told us was that when the wind blows in the wrong direction it can cause the water level to rise in the city, which happened today and so the boat had to take a slightly different route than what is normally done. Another amusing story she told was of a military boat whose captain accidentally pushed the wrong button and sent missiles into a bunch of houses, completely destroying several and damaging hundreds. Luckily it was in an area of second homes and none of the owners were present so there were no casualties, but one of the houses destroyed belonged to the captain’s mother-in-law. 

I Hope They Don't Fire any Missiles

After the canal tour we went to a department store and had dessert at a bakery/coffee shop called Holm. We had a giant chocolate truffle, chocolate filled marzipan roll and a summer cake with layers of marzipan, strawberry and chocolate. They were all very good, but my favorite was the summer cake. 

Summer Tart

When we finished dessert we headed back to the hotel and got the kids ready for bed. After they were in bed I left to take pictures in Nyhavn and of the Circle Bridge and then I came back to the hotel and got ready for bed. 

Nyhavn

The Circle Bridge

August 5: Amsterdam Day 4

This morning LB woke up at 4 am because his mosquito bites were too itchy. We went to breakfast at 7:45 and then left for Centraal Station to meet up with Kyoko-san who was helping her friends get on the bus for Zaans Schans. After we met up with her we all headed to the NEMO Museum, which is an interactive museum for kids.

NEMO Museum

We spent three hours checking out as much as we could and LB was having a blast. He said his favorite parts were the giant water clock, the Rube Goldberg presentation, the exhibit on how clean water is produced, and a game where you had to protect earth from comets, asteroids, solar wind and UV-radiation by holding a shield that sensed where you were on the screen. 

Rube Goldberg Anticipation

We were finally able to pull LB away from all the fun in the Nemo Museum and go do a self-guided food tour of the Jordaan neighborhood with Ojiichan and Hirojichan. We went to a sandwich place called Broodje Mokum and tried a meatball sandwich, a hindustani chicken sandwich and a filet Americain sandwich, which was basically a steak tartare sandwich. Our next stop was Fa. H. Wegewijs for some cheese. We sampled five different kinds of cheese; they were a young (jonge kaas) Beemster aged 28 days, a young matured (jong belegen) Beemster aged 6-7 weeks, an old (oude kaas) Beemster aged 10 months, a truffle beemster and a goat cheese. They were all exceptional but our favorite was the 10 month aged Beemster. It had a perfect blend of creaminess and salty complexity. 

MMMMM Cheese!

From the cheese shop we headed to a gelateria called Monte Pelmo and on the way it started pouring down rain. Luckily the gelato shop was pretty empty when we arrived so we were all able to fit inside. Christal ordered the panna cotta with forest fruit and I ordered the panna cotta with forest fruit and passion fruit. The passion fruit was very good, but the panna cotta with forest fruit was excellent. It had a nice mixed berry flavor and the creaminess was very light and refreshing so it didn’t feel like it weighed you down. 

More Canals

After the gelato we were getting a little full so we were going to skip some stops and try to go to a place that had apple pie, but unfortunately when we got there it was packed to the gills because of a gay pride boat parade that was happening city wide throughout the canals and so we couldn’t even get in the door for the pie. Thanks to the gay pride events going on throughout the city the last few days I saw more than my fair share of fishnets, chains and leather. Since our last stop was a no-go we decided to head back to Centraal Station so that Christal, the kids and I could go to another stroopwafel place and Ojiichan and Hirojichan could head back to the hotel. After dodging all the gay pride revelers Christal and I made our way to van Wonderen Stroopwafels where I got a stroopwafel with chocolate and salted caramel candy and Christal got one with chocolate and mini marshmallows. They were both very good and very sweet, but we agreed that Rudi’s Stroopwafels were better since they were made fresh to order, whereas van Wonderen’s wafels were made en masse and finished to order with syrup and toppings. 

Not As Good As Rudi's

After we got ourselves all hopped up on sugar we headed back to the hotel for a little bit before heading out for dinner with Ojiichan and Hirojichan. Dinner was at another Indonesian restaurant called Sampurna.  We ordered another rijstaffel and I don’t think Indonesian food is Ojiichan or Hirojichan’s favorite cuisine. I thought the food was good, about on par with Kartika’s, but Sampurna gave us more sambals and the grated coconut tasted better to me. Christal and I really enjoyed the rijstaffel though and for me the standout was the chicken curry. 

Ayam Rujak - Chicken w Lemongrass, Chili & Coconut Sauce

After dinner we headed back to the hotel and put the kids to sleep,then I took a walk around town. I walked by the red light district just to say I did and it was a bit underwhelming, and it was also so crowded that they had security on the streets directing foot traffic one way only. 

Red Light District

From there I walked to Centraal Station to catch a tram back towards the hotel. At one of the stops I saw that the canal bridge was lit up so I got off quickly and was able to try to take a few night pictures before the bridge lights turned off, which turned out to be at 11:05 for some reason. Then I went back to the hotel and went to sleep.

Centraal Station